Wash and dry all produce. Quarter tomatoes. Trim, then thinly slice scallions, separating whites from greens. Peel kiwi, then dice into 1/4-inch cubes. Zest 1 tsp zest from lime, then cut into wedges. Thinly slice radishes. TIP: For a fancy presentation, stack the radish slices and slice again into matchsticks.

In a small bowl, mix together sour cream, half the lime zest, a squeeze of lime, and a pinch of chipotle powder (to taste—it’s spicy). Season with salt and pepper.

In another small bowl, combine cornstarch, remaining lime zest, and half of the remaining chipotle powder (save the rest for another use). Pat tilapia dry with paper towels, then season all over with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with cornstarch mixture, gently rubbing mixture into fillets to evenly coat.

Heat a 1/4-inch layer of oil in a large pan over medium-high heat (use a nonstick pan if you have one). Once oil is hot enough that a pinch of cornstarch sizzles when added to the pan, add tilapia. Cook until browned and lightly crisped, 3-4 minutes per side. Set aside on a paper-towel-lined plate.

While tilapia cooks, toss together kiwi, tomatoes, scallion whites, and a squeeze of lime in a third small bowl. Season with salt and pepper. Wrap tortillas in a lightly dampened paper towel and microwave on high until warm and soft, about 30 seconds.

Break tilapia into smaller pieces and divide between tortillas. Top with as much of the pico de gallo, radishes, crema, and scallion greens as you like and serve.