Crush the bay leaves as finely as possible using a pestle and mortar, then mix with the breadcrumbs, lemon zest and some seasoning, then set aside. Put the spinach in a colander and pour over boiled water from the kettle to wilt it. Rinse under cold water to cool, then squeeze out as much of the water as possible. Bring the cream, white wine and mushrooms to the boil in a pan, then remove from the heat and set aside.

Spread out the wilted spinach in the base of a baking dish or roasting tin that’s large enough to snugly fit the salmon. Pour over the creamy mushrooms. Season to taste. Lay the salmon on top, down the middle of the dish, with the rounded-side up. Season the salmon and drizzle over the lemon juice, then scatter over the breadcrumbs so the fillet is completely covered. Will keep chilled for up to 24 hrs.

Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Dot the butter over the salmon and bake for 30-35 mins until the fish is just cooked through, the crumb is golden and the cream has bubbled into the spinach. Leave to rest for a few minutes, then serve the salmon and spinach straight from the dish.