Season the pork all over with 1 tbsp salt – you can do this up to 24 hrs before you roll it, but if you don’t have time, don’t worry. Keep the salted pork covered and chilled.

Toast the fennel seeds and 2 tsp black pepper in a dry frying pan for a couple of minutes. Pound or blitz the toasted fennel seeds and pepper, a large pinch of sea salt flakes, the garlic and herbs using a pestle and mortar or mini chopper to make a rough paste. Mix in 2 tbsp of the olive oil, the lemon zest and chilli flakes, if using.

Lay the pork skin-side down on a chopping board, score the flesh in a criss-cross pattern all over, then cut away a 3-4cm strip of flesh along the long side closest to you, leaving just the skin exposed – this will make it a neater roll later. Massage the herby seasoning mixture deep into the cuts and all over the flesh and place the strip of meat you’ve cut away along the middle.

Starting from the longest side that hasn’t been cut, roll the belly up as tightly as you can, with the flap of skin you created in step 3 neatly overlapping at the end. Use butcher’s string to tie the joint tightly at 2cm intervals. You can do this up to 24 hrs ahead (the flavour will intensify over time).

When you’re ready to cook, heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. If you have one, put a wire rack or trivet over a large roasting tray and sit the pork on top, or sit the pork in a shallow roasting tin. Massage or brush the remaining 1 tbsp oil over the pork skin and sprinkle over some salt. Roast for 3 hrs, basting with the fat every 30 mins after the first hour of cooking.

After 3 hrs, turn up the heat to 240C/220C fan/gas 9 and roast for a further 20-30 mins, checking every 10 mins or so to make sure it doesn’t burn. Cook until the skin has crackled well. When the pork is ready, lift it onto a board and rest for 10 mins. For a lighter gravy, pour the fat out of the roasting tray, leaving behind any caramelised bits. If the tray is flameproof, pour in the wine, or if it’s not, scrape into a saucepan first, then add the wine. Simmer for a few minutes, then season. Carve the porchetta into slices and serve in soft rolls with chutney, or as a roast with all the trimmings.