Heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a pan over a medium-low heat, crumble in the mince and cook for 15-20 mins. It will release some liquid but once that has bubbled away, the mince will sizzle in its own fat and start to brown and caramelise. At this point, stir the mince with a wooden spoon.

Stir in the onion and continue to cook for 10 mins until it’s softened. Add the garlic and cook for a minute more. Scatter the sugar over, then stir through the tomato purée and cook until it’s toasted and starts to stick to the pan. Splash in the vinegar and let it simmer for a minute. Tip in the canned tomatoes, then use the wine to swill out the can and tip into the sauce. Season with salt and pepper, scatter in the oregano, nestle in the cinnamon stick and bay leaves, bring to a simmer and cook gently, stirring occasionally, for 40 mins until you have a thick ragu. Remove from the heat, fish out the bay and cinnamon, and stir through another 1 tbsp of the olive oil.

While the ragu is cooking, cut the tops off the aubergines, then cut lengthways into 1cm thick slices. Put in a bowl and lightly salt, and set aside for 20 mins until they soften and become droopy. Drizzle liberally with the rest of the olive oil and toss well. Heat a griddle pan over a high heat and cook the slices on both sides for a few minutes until soft and lightly charred. You’ll need to do this in batches. Leave to cool slightly on a plate. (This can also be done on a barbecue if you have time.)

For the topping, tip the yogurt into a bowl with the whole egg and yolk, half the parmesan, the nutmeg and some salt and pepper, then whisk until combined. Spoon a third of the meat into a large rectangular ovenproof dish (ours was roughly 20 x 30cm) and spread out evenly, lay half the aubergine on top, then another third of the meat sauce followed by the remaining slices of aubergine. Pour in the last of the lamb sauce, then spoon over the yogurt mix smoothing it to the edges. Scatter the feta over along with the rest of the parmesan. Will keep chilled for two days.

Heat the oven to 200C/180 fan/gas 4. Bake the moussaka for 50 mins or until deep golden brown. Set aside for at least 10 mins to cool before serving with a side salad, if you like.