Bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Season the water, drop in the beetroot and cover the pan with a lid. Cook for 30-45 mins, depending on their size, until a cutlery knife can be easily inserted into them.

Meanwhile, heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the feta in a bowl and mash with a fork, then beat in the yogurt and season with the lemon juice and zest to taste. In a dry frying pan, toast the quinoa, if using, until it pops. Set both aside.

Segment the grapefruit over a bowl to catch the juices, squeezing out as much as possible. Put the segments to one side, then whisk the olive oil with the juice. Season to taste with lemon juice, salt and pepper. You want it to be really tangy, as all the acidity will be absorbed by the beets.

Rub the harissa over the trout, season, then roast in the oven for 8-10 mins until just cooked.

Drain the beetroot. Once cool enough to handle, peel off the skin – it should come away easily. Cut into segments, then put onto a salad plate along with the chicory leaves. Pour the dressing over the warm beets and toss together. Nestle in the grapefruit segments, trout, harissa and dill, then add dollops of the feta and scatter over the toasted quinoa, if using.