Soak the bread in a bowl of cold water, then squeeze out the excess and tip into a food processor or blender. Cut through the thick skin of the roe lobes, scrape out the soft roe underneath and tip into the food processor with the bread. Add the onion, garlic, lemon juice and a good grind of black pepper, then whizz to a paste.

With the motor running, gradually drizzle in the olive oil, then the sunflower oil, until everything is incorporated and you have a slightly thicker paste. Scrape the taramasalata into a serving bowl, drizzle with a little more olive oil and serve with toasted pittas for dipping.