If you have time, prepare the pork the night before or at least 1-2 hrs ahead. Season the pork loin with salt, then put in a large bowl with the garlic, herbs, vinegar and wine, turning to coat. Leave to marinate in the fridge overnight or for 1-2 hrs at room temperature. If making the crackling, season the pork skin with salt on both sides, then sprinkle with the fennel seeds and chilli flakes, if using. Chill on a baking tray overnight or up to 24 hrs.

Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Remove the pork from the marinade, allowing the excess to drip back into the bowl and brush off any herbs. Pat dry with kitchen paper. Heat the oil in a flameproof roasting tin or casserole and brown the pork well on all sides for 15-20 mins, using tongs to hold it up and brown the ends. Pour over the leftover marinade, transfer to the oven and roast for 15 mins. If you’re making the crackling, cook the skin on its baking tray, fatty-side down, on another shelf.

After 15 mins, pour the milk over the pork and roast for another hour, basting it with the milk every 20 mins. The milk will look curdled, but don’t worry – this is how it should look. After an hour, check that the pork is firm by pressing a finger into the thickest part. If it’s not, baste and roast for 10 mins more. Remove to a board and leave to rest. Check the crackling to see if it’s crisping up, and increase the oven if needed.

Put the roasting tin over a low heat and simmer the milk, whisking to break up any curds, then strain through a sieve into a small pan. Tip in any resting juices from the pork and warm through to make a thin, milky gravy. By now, the crackling should be golden and crisp. Carve the pork and serve in slices with the gravy and crackling.