Heat the oven to 220/200C fan/gas 8. Put the milk, 100ml water and the butter in a medium pan over a low heat and warm until the butter has melted and the liquid is simmering. Stir in the flour and continue to cook, stirring, until the mixture comes away cleanly from the side of the pan. Transfer to a bowl and whisk in the eggs, one at a time, then beat in the cheese and some seasoning.

Spoon the mixture into a piping bag, snip off the end and pipe about 20 rounds over two baking trays lined with baking parchment. Use a finger or fork dipped in water to gently press down any peaks. Bake for 20 mins, or until the gougères are puffed up, deep golden and crisp. Leave to cool.

If you’re making the filling, melt the butter in a pan over a medium-low heat. Whisk in the flour to form a sandy paste. Slowly whisk in the milk and cream, and continue to cook until the mixture thickens. Stir in the cheese to melt, season, then remove from the heat and cool completely. Once cool, transfer to a second piping bag. Snip off the end.

Using a skewer, poke holes into the bottoms of the gougères that are big enough to fit the end of the piping bag. Pipe in the filling, then arrange four on each plate and scatter over more grated cheese.