Melt the butter in a saucepan and skim any white solids from the surface. Keep the butter warm.

Put the egg yolks, white wine or tarragon vinegar, a pinch of salt and a splash of ice-cold water in a metal or glass bowl that will fit over a small pan. Whisk for a few minutes.

Then put the bowl over a pan of barely simmering water and whisk continuously until pale and thick, about 3-5 mins.

Remove from the heat and slowly whisk in the melted butter bit by bit until it’s all incorporated and you have a creamy hollandaise. (If it gets too thick, add a splash of water.)

Season with a squeeze of lemon juice and a little cayenne pepper. Keep warm until needed.

To make eggs benedict, toast the muffin halves, top each half with a slice of warmed ham and a poached egg, and spoon over a generous helping of hollandaise.