Line a shallow pan, long enough to accommodate the fish, with food wrap so that the length of the wrap is double the length of the pan. Lay the fish skin-side down and gently pull up the sides of the wrap to create a well around the fish.

Combine the salt, sugar and spices in a small bowl. Sprinkle evenly over the fish, giving the thicker parts of the salmon a little extra. Sprinkle over the herbs and drizzle over the olive oil. Bring the wrap up and over to tightly wrap the fish.

Cut a piece of cardboard the same size as the fish and place it on top of the fish in the pan. Place a weight of no more than 2kg on the cardboard to gently press the cure into the fish. Put the weighted fish in the fridge for 24 hrs.

Unwrap and flip the salmon over so it’s skin-side up. Repeat the wrapping and weighting process, and chill for another 24 hrs.

Remove the fish from the cure and wipe the skin clean. Put the fillet skin-side down on a board. Gently remove the curing brine from the flesh. Using a long, sharp knife, cut thin slices of the salmon down and away from the skin. Set aside.

To make the latkes, combine the onion, parsley, potato starch or cornflour, if using, and eggs in a small bowl. Put the potato matchsticks in another bowl and season with salt. Leave to stand for 5 mins. Roll the potato in a clean tea towel and squeeze out any excess water. Wipe out the bowl, return the potato to it, then combine with the onion mixture and seasoning.

Melt a knob of the unsalted butter in a medium heavy-bottomed pan over medium-high heat. As the butter starts to foam, add a large spoonful of the potato mixture and flatten it evenly using the back of the spoon – the potato should be no more than 1cm thick. Cook for 2-3 mins on each side until golden, then transfer carefully onto a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain. Repeat with the butter and remaining potato mixture. Cut each latke into nine strips.

To assemble the canapés, cut 18 strips of the cured salmon and wrap each strip around a strip of latke. Arrange on a serving platter. Serve with soured cream, a good drizzle of olive oil and lemon wedges.