Rinse the mussels under cold running water, discarding any that are cracked or open and won’t close when tapped sharply on the side of the sink. Drain well. Melt the butter in a large, deep pan that has a lid over a medium heat and cook the shallots with a little salt for 3-4 mins until softened.

Turn up the heat and tip in the mussels, then pour in the wine, cover and cook for 4-5 mins, giving the pan an occasional shake until all the mussels have opened. Scatter over the parsley and season with a little black pepper, then turn everything over using a large serving spoon. Divide the mussels between four bowls and spoon over the cooking liquid. Serve with the cheat’s frites and aïoli (see recipes, below) on the side.