Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Toss the cauliflower in a large, shallow roasting tin with the cumin seeds, turmeric, some seasoning and half the oil until the cauliflower is coated and bright yellow. Roast for 15 mins, tossing a few times, until starting to char.

Meanwhile, peel the garlic, then put in a small food processor with the ginger, half the red chilli, the curry powder and some seasoning. Blitz to a paste. Stir the chickpeas, half the spice paste and most of the remaining oil through the cauliflower. Roast for 20 mins more, stirring once or twice.

While the cauliflower and chickpeas are roasting, mix the softened butter with the rest of the spice paste, and spread half all over the fish. When the cauliflower and chickpeas are ready, remove the pan from the oven and make four gaps in the mixture. Nestle the fish in the gaps, and dot all but 1 tbsp of the remaining spiced butter over the veg. Roast for 10-15 mins more.

Heat the remaining oil in a large pan over a high heat until very hot, then cook the spinach for 3-4 mins until wilted. Add the reserved 1 tbsp spiced butter and continue to cook for 1-2 mins more. Set aside until the fish is just cooked through, then sprinkle the coriander, garam masala and remaining red chilli over the traybake. Serve the traybake in the middle of the table with the spinach in a bowl alongside for everyone to help themselves.