Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 with a baking sheet inside. Butter a 24cm non-stick savarin mold, or a 20cm springform cake tin. Sprinkle 25g parmesan over the tin in an even layer. Arrange the 8 whole sage leaves over the base of the tin, then set aside.

Melt the butter in a medium pan over a medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook for 2 mins, then gradually pour in the milk, whisking continuously. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 5 mins until thick and smooth. Remove from the heat and stir in the pumpkin purée, remaining parmesan, the mustard powder and nutmeg. Add the chopped sage, then taste for seasoning. Cool slightly. Beat in the eggs, then fold in the goat’s cheese.

Spoon the mixture into the tin and bake for 35-45 mins until risen and dark golden. Leave to cool in the tin for 10 mins before turning out onto a serving plate.

For the sauce, melt the butter in a small pan over a medium heat. Add the sage and hazelnuts, and cook until the white flecks in the butter start to turn brown and the sauce smells nutty. Remove from the heat and add a pinch of salt and half the lemon juice. Taste and add more lemon if needed. Spoon the sauce over the sformata.

Serve with cranberry sauce and all the Christmas trimmings, or with a chicory salad in a balsamic dressing.