Combine the soy, onion and garlic granules, the smoked paprika, vinegar, Shaohsing wine, ginger, fresh garlic, star anise, cinnamon, chilli flakes and a grinding of black pepper in a bowl. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a deep saucepan over a medium heat, pour in the sugar and cook, swirling the pan occasionally until the sugar has melted. Continue to cook until the sugar has darkened and caramelised. Reduce the heat to low and pour in the soy sauce mixture (it may split at this stage, but will come together again as it cooks). Turn the heat back up to medium, bring to a simmer and cook for 5-10 mins until the mixture has reduced and thickened. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature, about 20-25 mins.

Meanwhile, heat the oven to 150C/130C fan/gas 2. Remove the thin membrane from the back of the pork ribs (see tip, below), then arrange them in a single layer in a large roasting tin. Pour over the soy caramel and cover the tin tightly with foil. At this stage, the ribs can be chilled for up to 24 hrs. Bake for 2 hrs 30 mins-3 hrs until the ribs are very tender and a sharp knife can be easily inserted. Remove to a plate and tip the roasting juices into a wide pan, removing the cinnamon stick and star anise. Cook the juices over a high heat for 10-15 mins until thickened and sticky. Cut the ribs into thirds, then toss in the glaze and return to the roasting tin. Heat the grill to high and grill the ribs for 5 mins until caramelised. Scatter over the spring onions and serve with steamed pak choi, rice and pickled vegetables, if you like.