Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Heat the mascarpone in the microwave for 1-2 mins, or until loosened. Stir in the chives and half of the grated hard cheese, then season generously with black pepper and a good pinch of salt.

Line a baking sheet with baking parchment. Spread the mascarpone mixture over half of each of the pancakes, then top with the ham, if using (or if using salmon, top the pancakes with it just before serving instead). Fold the pancakes in half, then in half again to create a triangle shape and transfer to the baking sheet. Sprinkle over the remaining grated cheese and bake for 15 mins, or until golden and bubbling. Sprinkle over some chives to serve.