Warm the milk in a small saucepan over a medium heat. Once it begins to steam, set aside to cool slightly.

Meanwhile, sift 500g of the flour into the bowl of a stand mixer with the dough hook attached, then pour in the sugar, yeast, 1 tsp salt, the orange and lemon zests, and all the spices. Mix gently to combine.

Once the milk is lukewarm, crack in the eggs and whisk to combine. Turn the speed to low on the stand mixer, then slowly pour in the wet ingredients. Turn the mixer up to medium speed and knead for 8-10 mins, or until you can stretch a small bit of the dough and it becomes thin enough so that you can see through it. If the dough rips, return the dough to the mixer.

Turn the mixer to medium speed and add the butter a cube at a time, waiting for the first piece to mix into the dough before adding the next. Once all the butter has been added, continue to knead for 5-6 mins. Test by stretching a small bit of the dough – it should be thinner.

Once the dough is ready, shape it into a ball, then put in a buttered bowl, cover and leave to rise in a warm place for 1-2 hrs until doubled in size. When the dough has about 30 mins left, steep the teabag in 150ml boiling water, if using, then add the raisins and sultanas. Set aside.

Once the dough is doubled in size, turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Drain the sultanas, then work them into the dough, kneading until evenly dispersed throughout.

Divide the dough into 25 pieces – they should each weigh about 45g. Shape into small balls using lightly floured hands, tucking the raisins into the centre of the ball as much as you can. Arrange well spaced apart on a baking tray lined with baking parchment, then cover and leave somewhere warm to rise for 45 mins-1 hr, or until they’re puffed up.

Meanwhile, make the cross for the top of the doughnut. Whisk the remaining 50g flour and 60ml water together until thick but pipeable. Transfer to a piping bag and set aside.

To make the chocolate dipping sauce, put all the chopped chocolate, the cinnamon, ginger and a small pinch of salt in a heatproof bowl. Pour the milk, cream and golden syrup into a small saucepan and heat until steaming. Pour this over the chopped chocolate mixture and whisk until it's smooth and glossy. You can loosen it by warming in the microwave if it sets.

When the doughnuts are nearly ready, fill a large, deep saucepan with vegetable oil, ensuring it's no more than a third full, and heat to 160C-170C, or until a cube of bread dropped in browns in 30 seconds. Pipe a cross on each doughnut, then gently lower the doughnuts into the oil, trying to get them cross-side down first. You will need to do this in batches. Cook on each side for 3-4 mins, or until deep golden and cooked through. Remove to a sheet of kitchen paper using a slotted spoon. Toss the cooked doughnuts in 75g caster sugar in a bowl, then serve with the chocolate dipping sauce. The doughnuts are best eaten on the day they're made.