Chop off the stringy roots and dark green leaves. You won't use the tough tops in most leek recipes, but I love to save them for vegetable stock.

Slice the leeks in half lengthwise. Lay them cut-side-down on a cutting board, and cut them into thin half-moons. Transfer to a colander and rinse under cool running water, tossing to remove any dirt or debris. Use a kitchen towel to blot them dry before you start to cook.

To sauté: follow the cutting method described above, and warm a glug of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the leeks, a few pinches of salt and pepper, and cook, stirring occasionally, until they soften, about 5 minutes.

To roast: chop into 1-inch chunks, and wash them using the method described above. Toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper and roast at 425° for 15 to 20 minutes, or until they're tender.

To grill: slice in half lengthwise (skip the chopping step above), rinse and dry them well, drizzle with a little olive oil and grill both sides on medium-high until they're well-charred and tender. Season with salt and pepper.