In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, 1/2 cup (100g) of the sugar, the baking powder, and salt. Set aside.

In a large bowl using a handheld or stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar on medium-high speed until light and foamy, about 2 minutes. With the mixer still running, slowly pour in the remaining 1/2 cup (100g) of sugar. Increase to high speed and whip until stiff, glossy peaks form, about 5 minutes. Set aside. (If you used a stand mixer bowl, transfer the meringue to another bowl and reuse the mixer bowl in the next step.)

In a large bowl using a handheld or stand mixer fitted with the whisk, beat the egg yolks, milk, oil, and vanilla on medium-high speed until pale and frothy, about 2 minutes.

Sift the flour mixture into the egg yolk mixture, and whisk to combine. Add half of the meringue to the batter and use a spatula to gently fold it all together to incorporate. Then fold in the remaining meringue. Work slowly and gently so you don’t deflate the egg whites. The batter should be light and fluffy. Pour the batter into an ungreased 10-inch tube pan and smooth the top.

Bake for 45–55 minutes or until the top of the cake springs back when lightly pressed. Insert a toothpick near the center; if it comes out clean, the cake is done. (Our test cakes always took exactly 50 minutes.)

Immediately invert the cake pan onto a cooling rack and leave the cake upside down until completely cool. Run a thin knife around the edges to help loosen the sides. Gently tap the pan, upside down, on a serving stand or plate to release the cake.

Make the cream cheese whipped cream, if using: In a large bowl using a handheld or stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the cream cheese on medium speed until smooth and creamy, about 1 minute. Add the confectioners’ sugar and vanilla, and beat until completely smooth (absolutely no lumps!). Add a few Tablespoons of the cold heavy cream, and beat until the mixture loosens and smooths out. With the mixer running on low speed, slowly stream in the remaining heavy cream. Increase to medium-high speed and whip until medium peaks form, about 3 minutes. Spread or pipe on the cake. In the pictured cake, I used Ateco 808 large round piping tip. Garnish with fresh berries, if desired. Slice and serve.

Store leftover cake covered at room temperature for up to 2 days or in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. If topped with the Cream Cheese Whipped Cream, store the cake covered in the refrigerator.