Heat the oil in a large frying pan and sear the cauliflower steaks for 3-4 mins on each side until nicely browned. Lift onto kitchen paper, then put in the fridge to keep cool. Can be done up to two days ahead.

To make the rarebit, melt the butter in a saucepan and stir in the flour to make a sandy paste. Add the milk a little at a time to make a thick white sauce. Bubble gently, stirring often for a couple of mins, then stir in the cheese, cayenne, mustard and Worcestershire sauce and stir until the cheese has melted into a smooth, rich sauce. Remove the pan from the heat and leave to cool slightly, then beat in the yolks and season. Transfer to an airtight container and keep in the fridge if not using straight away. Can be made up to two days ahead.

Before you assemble, take the cheesy rarebit mix out of the fridge at least an hour before you need it. Heat oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Lay the cauliflower on a baking sheet, then divide and spread or press on the rarebit mix until completely covered. Bake in the oven for 12-15 mins, then finish under a hot grill until bubbling and golden. Transfer the cauliflower rarebits to two plates and serve with a spoonful of chutney and a generous handful of watercress salad. Perfect with a pint of beer.