Mix the flour, baking powder, bicarb and a good pinch of salt in a bowl. In another bowl, whisk the egg whites until soft peaks form when the whisk is lifted. Beat the egg yolks with a wooden spoon or spatula for 1-2 mins until smooth. Beat in the butter, sugar and vanilla until combined, then add one third of the buttermilk and mix again. Now add the flour mixture and remaining buttermilk in batches, mixing until just combined each time. Use a large rubber spatula or metal spoon to fold in the egg whites. Don’t do this too thoroughly – the mixture should be streaked with white.

Heat the oven to 200C/180 fan/gas 8. Butter a 12-hole muffin tin thoroughly then dust the inside with sugar (including the sides) and divide the batter between the holes; it is fine if they are full to the top. Bake for 35-40 minutes, rotating the tin at half time, until well browned, puffed and firm to the touch.

While the puffins are in the oven, bring the syrup to the boil in a small pan, turn off the heat and tip in the berries. Serve the puffins straight from the oven. Dust them with icing sugar, put them on plates and pour over lots of syrup.